Baunei

Baunei is a small town in the north of Ogliastra, nestling between the rugged massif of Supramonte and the unspoilt Tyrhennian coast and its current population stands at 3,886 inhabitants.
The town’s traditional agricultural and sheep-farming economy has in recent years, though rather timidly, embraced the idea of developing tourism based on the exploitation of the area’s stunningly beautiful natural resources. If, in fact, we regard Ogliastra as an absolutely fascinating mix of rugged mountains and crystal-clear waters, then the whole, vast territory of Baunei is the supreme example above all others of this pleasant dichotomy. The rugged mountains of the Baunei Supramonte, roughly divided by deep, narrow valleys cut into the landscape, known as “codule”, have for some time been a popular location for trekking, mountain walking and caving enthusiasts. If the Grotta del Fico (Fig Cave) and the Grotta di Goloritzè are the best known caves among those who love the world beneath the surface, then the terrifying Golgo chasm (“Su Sterru”), with its 295-metre abyss, is the deepest one to be found in Europe, a bottomless pit, which, for the most part, is still undiscovered. But Baunei’s main treasures are hidden along its coastline: the incredible cliffs, towering above the sea (the most imposing in the Mediterranean), where the Eleonora Falcon builds its nest, are occasionally punctuated by marvellous little bays, that you can only reach via the sea or along treacherous mountain paths. This isolation, however, is what has allowed this area to remain unspoilt. Cala Luna (a location for many films including the famous “Travolti da un insolito destino nell'azzurro mare d'agosto” by the director Lina Wertmuller), Cala Mariolu, Cala Goloritzè (with its exceptional rocky pinnacle that soars to 128 metres) and Cala Sisine are some of the most important names along a coastline, whose natural physical features preclude it from becoming a destination for mass tourism. T
he foundation date of the town itself is unknown: according to tradition, it was founded by a goatherd and its name derives from the Greek word “bainos”, meaning “oven”, referring to the ovens in which limestone rocks were baked to extract the lime used in building the town.
Clinging to the mountain ridge, Baunei still preserves the original layout of the historical centre of the town; right in the heart you can see the 17th century Parish Church of San Nicola di Bari with its unusual domed roof. The ancient country church of San Pietro di Golgo, that stands near the chasm, is also very interesting; on 29th June the town’s most important festival takes place all around it, with horse races and banquets of roast meats.
The small, coastal district of Santa Maria Navarrese also belongs to Baunei, with its characteristic long sandy beach and famous marina.
In the surrounding countryside, you can see the Romanesque Church of Santa Maria, founded, according to tradition, by a princess from Navarra who reached the shore here in 1052 following a shipwreck – hence the name of the place.
The traditional festival in this small coastal village is the “Sagra della Capra” (Goat Festival), which takes place on 15th August.
There is also a wealth of archaeological evidence scattered around the area, including the Coa 'e Serra, Orgoduri and Loppellai nuraghi and the Santu Pedru and Annida “tombe dei giganti”, none of which, unfortunately, are in a particularly good state of repair. The menhir planted in the ground opposite the little Church of San Pietro di Golgo is also rather fascinating.